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Iron D-Port Heads All iron d-port heads, flow number and performance results

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Old 01-28-17, 10:26AM   #46
turbo louie
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Jamie's motor IS a N/A combination.. Just muscle ..
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Old 01-28-17, 12:12PM   #47
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Jamie's motor IS a N/A combination.. Just muscle ..
The only way to roll
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Old 01-28-17, 04:35PM   #48
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The first time I saw him run and seen what he ran I felt like that little banana guy you just posted.. haha He ran better the my aluminum headed 461! Made me feel like I need to do better!
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Old 01-28-17, 06:12PM   #49
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Someone asked me If this Jamie guy....Jamie Hutton 66 green tempest running 9.69 with d ports. Is He running a 4.350 stroke so the motor is a 470 or bigger.
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Old 01-29-17, 01:01AM   #50
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Yes he is Gach..
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Old 01-30-17, 04:05AM   #51
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You don't have to have 500 cubes to go fast as I went 11:77 @ 121mph with my 462, (455 +.30 over) in my 73 GTO with full exhaust well almost it was to the rear axle an M-22 with 3:73 rear gears. My 60 ft times were in the 2.10's & around there but it was fast. But because of a mistake at the former machine shop it ate up the bottom end on it & after putting 3 bottoms in it I took it out to a different shop & they found why it was eating the bearings & is now being corrected & will be a 469 when it comes home so I guess I'm getting close to 500 cu." 's. But that also was with a worked Q-Jet to. So for me my E-Heads really made a big difference on my engine/car. But I think I mentioned before I only got a couple of passes because I got kicked off the track for no roll bar & scatter shield & a few other items & I'm not going to install a roll bar & ruin my interior. But I'm sure when I go back maybe this year I'll get a few more passes before I have to go home again. LOL.

There is so much wrong with this thread. Iron heads are NOT for people who do not want to go faster NA. There are folks who have been in the 8s with the right car. You can go 9s with a not so light car. Its been done folks. JA made it to the high 9s a long time ago in SS with iron RAIVs. There are 800+ HP NA D ports AND 800+ HP RAIV 400ci wide port heads on a 400.
OP, if you want your 670s to run send them to SD. Its about 1600$ if you supply the heads. I had a set of 48s done and they looked like a work of art. 272cfm,roller springs, ti retainers, undercut Manley valves, Milodon studs and guides, every surface dusted like a mirror.
The OP sends his heads to SD and it will rip the head off a street strip E head 400. What, the E head was computer designed ? It is what Edelbrock got when it called Dan Whittmore at his shop and asked what they should make for the Pontiac market. Dan asked for a aluminum replacement for the 1969-1970 RAIV in aluminum . He got what he asked for except for a 65cc r less chamber so you could get CR out of a 400.
Rex, if you want to know how to make the bottom end of you 455 last just ask. I have well over 1000 runs on a iron headed ,pump gas ,9,3 cr, TRW 455 that makes just under 600 HP, built in 1990. Runs 10.90 in a 91 octane heavy 69 GTO. If I wanted to chase 10.70s I could.
If you want your D ports to flow 300cfm send them to Wilcox. And please, Iron heads, its about the smallest chamber as its about the short turn. So, OP, you WANT to run a dish and not a FT with max iron head pump gas. A RAIV head will always outflow a HO head because of the chamber and the short turn. Same with D ports. 48s are the best. They have been 320cfm fellas. The cam matters a great deal with iron heads. They are not going to rev, so tight LC, narrow power band and make the TQ work for you.
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Old 01-30-17, 03:48PM   #52
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Good post.
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Old 01-31-17, 01:51PM   #53
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Dragncar, it's not that I can't keep the bottom end in my engine , but more over the 1st shop didn't do things correct. I am sure that I won't have this concern again as I am using a different machine shop one that i should have used the 1st time but I didn't know that the guy doing some of the other sent them to that 1st shop who I NEVER use because of problems in the past. Plus I'm doing very good in this car with the last engine before the bottom end problems for it being a full dressed car with complete interior , exhaust & RA IV manifolds. I'm sure if I went to headers & took out some of the insides to lighten it up & went to slicks ,,, but the way it's set up now I don't break stuff & I drive to & from the track when I do & run on the street 99% of the time. I also burn 87 oct. gas with really no need for any better. I do run 89 when I go to the track but that not that much of a difference, I just don't want to bang the tops of the pistons to death with the extra heat build up with the use of the 87. Now if you can give me any hints for the bottom end I'll listen as the block & part are at the shop right now so I'll need to make any changes NOW. It's almost done. Thanks for any help. Rex. P.S. I use the round port E-Heads not the D-Ports. Rex.
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Old 02-01-17, 02:53AM   #54
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If you run Clevite main bearings as most do with 455s, you will need to drill a hole in them on the tab side. Unless you use race bearings with a slot. 3 holes intersect in the block for your main bearing feeds. Here is the problem. The shot of oil in Pontiacs does NOT come from the center hole in the block. And most main bearings only have a hole in the middle. What happens if you do not run a race bearing OR modify standard bearings is, the shot of oil has to hit the back of the main bearing, move over, then shoot through. But your crank is spinning and the time it takes for the oil to move over will starve your rod bearings of oil at high RPMs.
What you do is with a Sharpie mark the oil hole in the block on the tab side and snap a new bearing in. It will make a mark one the bearing. Lightly center punch the back of the bearing and drill a 1/8" hole in it from the back. Then step up one drill size until you reach the same size as the block.Take half round jewelers file and de bur it all. I wrap the bearing in a rag and lightly put it in a vise.
Oil pump needs blueprinted and if you run a solid cam you should restrict the oil to the top end with restricters (.030) in the lifter bores.
Dont knock iron heads with what you want to do. Not all that hard to run10s with iron. Might have to use "old school" tricks some have forgot, but you can.
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Old 02-02-17, 03:37AM   #55
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Dragncar , I don't understand what you mean about the oil hole in the block, the only oil hole I can picture right now is in the bottom with the block over as your looking at it to install the crank which is usually 2 or 3 hole close together that are drilled in the crank journal area where the crank bearing sets in. ??? Possibly can you show a pic of what you mean as I don't think I've ever seen any other holes in the crank saddle other then the one in the bottom or top depending on how your looking at it. ?????
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Old 02-02-17, 08:59AM   #56
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There's 1 hole leading to the left lifter gallery and 1 to right lifter gallery ,also 1 to the cam bearing which makes 3 holes clustered together . Make the hole larger in the bearing to fit more of the 3 hole openings.. The slot bridges across all 3 . I open up the slot to make it wider. Either way (slot or the 1 hole) you can make it a bigger feed hole to accommodate for more area for oil to pass through...
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Old 02-03-17, 03:40AM   #57
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Thanks I wasn't aware that the 3 holes in the crank saddle had those 3 holes going to separate areas of the block. I do know about cutting a slot in the bearings but thought it was just for better oil flow & not better to go to all the 3 areas. I will be opening the bearing up to help the oil flow,,, it is 1 of my plans when I get the block back from the shop. Thanks for helping out & letting me know how it is for the flow.
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Old 02-04-17, 07:35PM   #58
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The hole on the "tab" side of the block is the one that has the shot of oil needed. If you do not drill the hole or turn the hole into a slot towards the tab side you will starve your rods of oil at high RPMs. The bearing with a round hole blocks it, so remove the obstacle.
My 455 was built in 1990 and never been hurt. Seen 7200 a few times. I used to shift at 6200 until I red lit. Got pissed and shifted into 2nd and 3rd just like that. Car ran its best ever.
It was just like Dan Whittmore (RIP) told me, you have short shift 455s with iron heads. You can not get enough air into the cylinder to push the piston down. The 455s piston speed is so great a even 6K its pulling away from the "push" of the explosion. So shift at 5200, the tranny will get it done by 5400 and let her rip. Sure you can shift higher with ported E heads ect. They(455s) are still about the "grunt" in the vast majority of builds unless you spend crazy dollars.
The Pontiac oiling system is not the best. Exactly like a small block Mopar. So oiling tricks for them work for Pontiacs which do not have priority main oiling (ALL aftermarket blocks should BTW) The main oil, and thus the rod oil has to go over to the other side of the block, come back and the way it gets to the mains is those 3 intersects. How far deep into the block , the "Vs" between the oil holes is how it gets to the mains. Its leftover oil, not dedicated.
BTW, most shops will not modify the mains, just snap them in. I do mine myself. If you want to get real tricky you actually drill a short hole in the main area of the block say 20deg to the crank rotation side. Then take a small cutoff wheel and cut a groove as wide as the main hole over to it. Get even more oil to the mains-rods. Never seen it done a factory block though.
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Old 02-04-17, 11:38PM   #59
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The OP sends his heads to SD and it will rip the head off a street strip E head 400.
You really believe that?
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Old 02-05-17, 12:05AM   #60
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Originally Posted by Dragncar View Post
The hole on the "tab" side of the block is the one that has the shot of oil needed. If you do not drill the hole or turn the hole into a slot towards the tab side you will starve your rods of oil at high RPMs. The bearing with a round hole blocks it, so remove the obstacle.
My 455 was built in 1990 and never been hurt. Seen 7200 a few times. I used to shift at 6200 until I red lit. Got pissed and shifted into 2nd and 3rd just like that. Car ran its best ever.
It was just like Dan Whittmore (RIP) told me, you have short shift 455s with iron heads. You can not get enough air into the cylinder to push the piston down. The 455s piston speed is so great a even 6K its pulling away from the "push" of the explosion. So shift at 5200, the tranny will get it done by 5400 and let her rip. Sure you can shift higher with ported E heads ect. They(455s) are still about the "grunt" in the vast majority of builds unless you spend crazy dollars.
The Pontiac oiling system is not the best. Exactly like a small block Mopar. So oiling tricks for them work for Pontiacs which do not have priority main oiling (ALL aftermarket blocks should BTW) The main oil, and thus the rod oil has to go over to the other side of the block, come back and the way it gets to the mains is those 3 intersects. How far deep into the block , the "Vs" between the oil holes is how it gets to the mains. Its leftover oil, not dedicated.
BTW, most shops will not modify the mains, just snap them in. I do mine myself. If you want to get real tricky you actually drill a short hole in the main area of the block say 20deg to the crank rotation side. Then take a small cutoff wheel and cut a groove as wide as the main hole over to it. Get even more oil to the mains-rods. Never seen it done a factory block though.
Maybe i misreading you but i think you have the oiling wrong. Oil goes from filter across the back of the block, feeds rear main, the turns and goes up driver side of block, along the way it feeds the driver side lifters and mains (oil the goes to mains also feeds rods and cam bearings) once the oil gets to front of block on driver side it goes down to feed front main then over to passenger side to feed those lifters and dist gear if you choose.
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